[Restaurant Review] Le Champignon Sauvage - French Ace
From the canapé to the dessert, Le Champignon Sauvage showcases what experience can deliver
LATESTDININGUNITED KINGDOM
Le Champignon Sauvage is a stalwart in the British dining scene; they have been serving the Cheltenham community for over 35 years. The restaurant isn't the most fancy; the exteriors are nondescript, while the dining room is posh but veers towards being more functional.
However, the food at Le Champignon Sauvage screams expert handling and you will enjoy dining here.
The Food
I had the set lunch, and at the time of writing, this costs 50 pounds for a three course meal. You can take a look at the menu I had below.


I was expecting a three course menu, but imagine my surprise when I was served canapes and an amuse bouche. I enjoyed the amuse bouche of goat cheese, leek and potato mousse. I'm not a goat cheese lover but this was good. I'm going to give a shout out to the blue cheese walnut cookie from the canapes too.


The starter of pork belly was well-seasoned but was a tad too dry for my liking. Top marks for the skin though, it was crispy but not tough.


I was then brought a selection of breads and I picked out the brioche. I love a good bread and this was excellent. The brioche is as good as any that you can find from a Parisian bakery. The crust was crispy and scented with the fragrance of sesame, while the rest of the bread was as soft as a pillow. I couldn't resist myself and had a second brioche after I finished the first.


Staying consistent to my habits, I ordered a fish dish for my main. The cornish plaice was tender and the accompanying vegetables provided a textural contrast with their crunch to the delicate fish. I especially loved the cabbage. I do wish there's more of the fish though.


I didn't have to wait too long after I finished my main before dessert was served. I applaud the chef for adding szechuan pepper to a dessert dish. You will experience two kinds of numbness here; one from the cold parfait and the other from the szechuan pepper. I was worried that the taste of szechuan pepper will overwhelm the dish, but no, the szechuan pepper adds just a nice scent while numbing your tongue slightly as you taste it. This has to be the most delicate and technical use of szechuan pepper I have seen.


The Venue
I enjoyed the peace and quiet of dining at Le Champignon Sauvage. Many reviews out there criticized the atmosphere as being too dull, but I enjoyed it. Yes, there's no background music, and the dining room isn't extravagant but I think that David and Helen, the owners are trying to provide the most conducive atmosphere for enjoying their food. There's a reason why they banned phone calls in the dining room; you are there to enjoy the food, and perhaps a good conversation with your dining partner!
Conclusion
Le Champignon Sauvage is a friendly restaurant, with a strong focus on leveraging their experience to deliver what they deem best for their customers. I enjoyed the dining experience, and I believe you will too. Be sure to grab the brioche!
Disclosure: This post is not sponsored.